Classic Open Tote

(Project #8 from the book Hold It! How to Sew Bags, Totes, Duffels, Pouches, & More by Nancy Restuccia; c.1994, Chilton/Krause Publications) Difficulty rating: Easiest

The open tote is an enduring style, both easy to make and well suited to a wide variety of uses. This is the "free tote bag" that all manner of merchandisers offer as a premium to induce you to buy their wares; the "boat bag" that sporting goods companies have been selling for years; the upscale "museum bag" that our finest cultural institutions offer through gift shops and catalogs, many of them with a hefty price tag attached; and the "ecological grocery bag" that will help save our planet from the evils of paper and plastic sacks. Your fabric choice--which may range from plain, unbleached canvas to upholstery fabrics, leathers, tapestries, and even wools--will determine whether you'll end up with a designer original or a utilitarian carryall. The following instructions are for making a plain, slightly oversize "green" grocery bag, but it's easy to change the size and look to suit your every need.

How to Make a Classic Open Tote You'll Need (for one 18"x 13"x 7" bag) Fabric: 1-3/8 yd. sturdy fabric, such as canvas, denim, Cordura, or pack cloth, at least 44" wide (Note: This is enough fabric for two bags) Optional: contrasting fabric for bottom (see Option 2, below, for measurements) Notions: 3-1/4 yd. of 1-1/2" webbing chalk or other marker; ruler Optional: decorative patch, label, or appliqué   1. Prepare fabric Cut fabric to 22"x 48", with length on the lengthwise grain.   2. Prepare webbing a. Clean-finish ends of webbing: sear nylon and polypropylene; stitch or fold under cotton and blends.Butt ends together snugly; stitch back and forth several times to secure. (Note: Be sure webbing isn't twisted before stitching.) b. Quarter-mark webbing, using butt joint as one of the four marks. c. Measure and mark 6" to either side of two opposite quarter marks (this will define two 12" segments, the handles). d. Fold webbing in half lengthwise along each 12" segment. Edgestitch to form handles.   3. Apply webbing a. Mark center bottom line midway across width of fabric. Mark webbing placement lines on right side, 8-1/2" in from each long edge. b. Position webbing on right side of fabric, inside edges along placement lines, positioning butt joint and remaining quarter mark on center bottom line; handles will loop over ends of panel. Pin. c. Edgestitch webbing, beginning and ending about 5" from each edge of panel.   4. Stitch side seams and hem a. Fold panel right sides together along center bottom line. Stitch or serge side seams, using 1/2" seam allowance. Optional: Trim seam allowance to 1/4" and clean-finish if not serged. b. Fold top raw edge under 1"; finger-press. Fold under again 1"; finger-press. Edgestitch.   5. Create bottom a. Flatten one corner to create a triangular point, aligning side seam with center bottom line. b. Mark a 7"-long line perpendicular to seam, 3-1/2" from point. Stitch along line. Stitch again 1/8" from seam, toward point, to reinforce. Repeat for other corner. 6. Finish bag Finish stitching webbing to bag at top, to within 3/4" of edge. Reinforce between stitching lines, using a narrow zigzag.   Options, Ideas & Variations... (note: only two of the eleven options in the book are reprinted here) 1. Make a Classic Open Tote in any size. To determine cutting dimensions, use this formula: Length will be finished height times two, plus finished depth, plus 2"­5" (2" for smaller bags, up to 5" for larger bags). Width will be finished width, plus finished depth, plus 1"­2" (1" for smaller bags, up to 2" for larger bags). Webbing will be finished height times four, plus finished depth times two, plus finished handle length times two (handle length generally ranges from 10" each for teeny totes to 16" each for grocery-bag-size totes.   2. Add a contrasting bottom. This is a practical as well as decorative option; the extra layer reinforces the bottom, which has to stand up to the most wear. To add this option, you'll need a piece of contrasting fabric the same width as the bag fabric, but 3"­7" longer than the bag's depth (3" for small bags, up to 7" for large bags). a. Construct as for Classic Open Tote, through Step 3c. b. Press under 1/2" on each long side of contrast panel. c. Edgestitch panel to bag at center bottom, right sides up. d. Complete Step 4. e. Turn bag right side out. Stitch corners as in Step 5a, except working on right side of bag. Fold triangular points up along each side, matching seamlines; pin. Stitch in the ditch through all layers to secure corners to bag. Show me some of the other projects from Hold It! ©1994 Nancy L. Restuccia All Rights Reserved Note: I invite you to print out the information on this Web page for your personal use. Please feel free to refer your friends to my site so they can print out their own copy. But please do not reproduce and distribute your copy without my permission--that is a violation of my copyright. (see "Free Stuff" page about writing for permission)